Vermicompost is vital to good soil. In the previous article on Organic Farming one of the sections dealt with soil and how important having healthy soil is to Organic Farming as a healthy soil equates to healthy vegetables and cattle. One of the main contributors to this process is the lowly earthworm. However, more and more people nowadays are realizing how useful this little animal is. The casts, or the manure that is produced by earthworms, is called vermicompost.The humble earthworm's activities result in numerous advantages:1) If you start your own vermicompost heap you generate an endless supply of cheap compost that is chemically-free, eco friendly and uses up biodegradable matter that before one would dispose of.
2) The vermicompost is friable and improves not only the structure of the soil, but also the rate of water retention.
3) The soil is enriched. The concentrations of nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, and phosphates are all higher in soil that has earthworms.
4) Vermicompost also suppresses certain types of weeds that would have grown if the compost were not present.
5) It promotes better root growth and structure, and is an excellent medium for growing seedlings and seeds as it enhances germination and crop yields.So now that we know the benefits of worm farming, how do we go about setting up a small worm farm and what sort of bin should you choose?What Size of Bin and Type of Bin is Best for you?For each 500 g (1 pound) of food waste produced each week, you will need at least 30 cm squared (1 ft squared) of bin space. Therefore choose the size of bin that is appropriate for your size family. As a benchmark for 2-3 people you should have a bin measuring 60 x 60 x 30 cm stocked with 1 kg of worms.Most small bins for vermicompost use can be grouped into three categories:1) Non-continuous : An undivided container, a layer of organic matter is placed in the bin lining the bottom. Worms are then added and organic matter for composting is added in a layer above the bedding. Another layer is added on top of the organic matter and the worms will start to compost the organic matter and bedding. This type of bin is often used because it is small and easy to build. But it is relatively difficult to harvest because all the materials and worms must be emptied out when harvesting.2) Continuous vertical flow : A series of trays are stacked vertically on top of one another. The bottom tray is filled first, in a similar fashion to the non-continuous bin, but is not harvested when it is full. Instead, a thick layer of bedding is added on top and the tray above is used for adding organic material. Worms finish composting the materials in the bottom tray and then migrate to the one above. When a sufficient number of worms have migrated, the vermicompost in the bottom tray can be collected and should be relatively free of worms. These bins provide an easier method of harvesting, as they do not all have to be emptied out.3) Continuous horizontal flow: A series of trays are lined horizontally. This method too relies on the earthworms migrating towards a food source in order to ease the process of harvesting. The bin is usually constructed to be similar to a non-continuous bin but is longer and lies horizontally. It is divided in half, usually by a large gauge screen of chicken wire. One half is used until it becomes full, then the other half is filled with bedding and organic matter. In time, the worms migrate to the side with the food and the compost can then be collected. These bins are larger than a non-continuous system but still small enough to be used for small-scale worm farming, with the added advantage of being easier to harvest.Setting up a small-scale Worm FarmSetting up the compost bin is easier than you may think. All you need are the following:* A plastic bin with a lid to keep away the flies and to cut down on odours while the matter is decomposing. However, your worms will need oxygen, so drill holes in the bottom of the bin for ventilation and drainage and further help this process by placing the bin on some bricks to elevate it off the ground.* Place some bedding in the bin for the worms in the form of either shredded paper (that from a mechanical shredder is perfect as it is really fine), peat moss or shredded coconut hair (coir) that can be commercially bought. Do not use glossy paper or magazines. This should not be more than about a fifth of your bin space. Remember that the worms eat the bedding, so you need to replenish this every few months.* Water to dampen the bedding. Make sure that you do not flood the bin with too much water. You just want to make the bedding moist.* Get your food scraps that you have been saving up. The best scraps are fruit and vegetable peelings, fruit skins, apple cores etc. If you want to help your worms along, some of those scraps could be liquidised in a blender to quicken the process. Additions such as cow, sheep, pig or chicken manure is a bonus, but it is not a necessity.* In setting up your vermicompost avoid feeding the worms the following: meat, fats or dairy products, citrus, onions and garlic, fish, bones, tobacco, or pet or human manure. Too much fat prevents the earthworms from breathing properly as they breathe through their skin. Also avoid using too many watermelon skins as they really don't have a lot of nutritional value for the earthworm and they also disrupt the moisture levels of the compost. If your lawns have been sprayed with any weed killer avoid feeding these clippings to the worms.* Now it is time to place your worms into the bin. The type of worm is important and the red worms are the ones to get. These are called composting worms and known as Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida) or Red Earthworms (Lumbricus rubellus). Make sure that you do this on a sunny day and that the sun is shining into the compost bin. Earthworms do not like the sun and they will immediately start digging down into their new home. If you do not have the sun shining for this exercise you may find that most of your worms have crawled out of the bin and left for greener pastures! The worms can be bought commercially, including over the Internet.* Now cover with two handfuls of soil to the bedding in each bin to supply "roughage" for the worms. Adding crushed eggshells provides not only roughage but also calcium for the worms, and it lowers acidity in the bin. Now put the lid down on the bin.Where should you Place your Vermicompost Bin?Many people actually like to keep their bin inside, either in a garage, basement, kitchen or laundry area. Personally, I do not think that compost bins belong indoors at all. Rather place the bin in a sheltered area out of the sun. In winter, you could move the bin to the garage, or surround it with some form of shelter like hay bales to keep the snow, rain and cold out.Maintaining your Vermicompost BinYou have to make sure that you have enough moisture in your bin, without it getting too wet, and
making sure that the compost is alkaline rather than acidic. You should turn the bin contents over on a regular basis, it's best to do this every 3 days. Your worms require 3 things to exist: i) Oxygen ii) Moisture iii) Food Scraps iv) A dark place to liveIf all requirements are met your worms will live quite happily in their new environment and will also procreate. Adult worms produce three cocoons a week and each cocoon will contain at least three baby worms and sometimes ten or more. Every three months the worms should be harvested or separated from the castings.Make sure that your soil never smells sour. If this happens it means that the soil is too wet. If it smells sour then add calcium carbonate, also known as garden lime which is very different to ordinary lime which will kill your worms, crushed egg shells, dirt, sand, or more newspaper to soak up that excess moisture.So how wet should your compost be? - About 75% moist. What exactly does this mean? I can already hear you ask. Well, if you take a handful of matter and squeeze it hard you should only get about a drop or two of liquid. This is just how your worms like their environment and will be quite happy to stay.No only will they be happy to stay they will also multiply. If conditions are good, you will double your worm population in six months. If the worms become crowded and you do not remove any, then worms will slow down their reproduction.Feeding your WormsThere are two methods of adding food scraps to the bin.* Top feeding: This is when food scraps and biodegradable matter is placed directly on top of the existing layer in a bin and then covered with another layer of bedding and soil. This is repeated every time the bin is fed.* Pocket feeding : A top layer of bedding is maintained and food is buried beneath by drilling down into the bedding. The location of the food is changed each time, rotating around the bin to give the worms time to decompose the food in the previously fed pockets. The top layer of bedding is replaced when necessary.One pound of worms will eat about three and one half pounds of food scraps a week. If you add more food than your worms can handle, anaerobic conditions will set in and cause odour. Make sure that food scraps are always buried under the soil to avoid attracting flies and rodents.Knowing When and How to Harvest the VermicompostSmaller scale worm bins are harvested in a variety of ways, and the length of time it takes for the process to be completed really depends on a whole range of variables including the size of the container to start off with. In all cases, harvesting should begin when the bedding and consumed food has turned a rich dark brown. It should be moist and crumbly, with a consistency of coffee grounds.After about six weeks, you will begin to see worm castings (soil-like material that has moved through the worms' digestive tracts). Castings can boost plant growth, since they are rich in organic matter and the nutrients plants need to thrive, and are pulsing with biological activity that will bring life to your soil eco-system.After about 4 months it will be time to separate the worms from the compost. If you have a non-continuous or undivided container, it is more difficult to harvest the worms. However, this situation is certainly not impossible. Take the contents and turn it upside-down on a piece of plastic such as a ground sheet or a tarpaulin. Because the earthworms are photosensitive, if this is done on a sunny day the worms will start burrowing down, and then it is easy to start scraping the compost from the top, waiting in between for them the move downwards. Wait 20-30 minutes before starting to scrape off the top layer of compost.If, however, you are the impatient type, get yourself a fine meshed sieve, the type they use in construction yards, if your compost heap is fairly large, or a large household sieve will do. Sieve the compost until you have finely granulated composted on one side, and your worms in the other to start the process all over again. Do not be lazy and put the worms into your soil along with the compost. It is not that the worms will damage your plants in any way, but red worms are not worms that will survive for any length of time in such soil. In nature, this type of worm lives in mild climates in the leaves on the forest floor or in manure piles.Be on the lookout for worm eggs. They are lemon-shaped and about the size of a match head. They are shiny in appearance, and are light brown in colour. The eggs contain between two and twenty baby worms. Although it is time consuming, you may want to return the eggs to your bin so they can hatch and thrive.Another way to harvest the compost is to move the compost to one side of the box and add fresh bedding and food to the other side. Then only bury food on the new side. In six weeks, the worms will have migrated to the new bedding and you can harvest the finished compost, and replace it with new bedding.Now that you have all this compost how are you going to use it?You can use your vermicompost straight away or store it and use it later. It will be good for about a year. Mix it into the top six inches of soil in your garden and around your trees and plants. You can also use it as a top dressing on outdoor plants or sprinkle it on your lawn like you would as if you were top-dressing. Vermicompost makes great nutrient-rich mulch so is perfect for areas that do not get lots of rain for moisture retention.For indoor plants, you can safely mix vermicompost with your potting soil. Regarding indoor plants, make sure that you have removed all worms and eggs from the compost as they will not survive in an indoor pot.You can also make a "compost tea" to feed to your plants. An easy recipe is to add two tablespoons of vermicompost to one quart of water and allow it to steep for a day, mixing occasionally. Water your plants with this "tea" to give them a boost. [EXTRACT] Vermicompost is vital for the good land. In the previous article in a farming section of the treated soil and the importance of healthy soil is organic farming as a healthy soil equals healthy plants and livestock. One of the main contributors to this process is the humble earthworm. However, more and more people today are realizing the usefulness of this little animal. The models, or the manure produced by earthworms, is called vermicompost.The result humble earthworm in the activities of a number of advantages: 1) If you start your own worm compost heap of generating an endless source of chemical fertilizer is cheaper than free, environmentally friendly and use biodegradable matter that before might be available. 2) The vermicompost is friable and not only improves soil structure, but also the rate of water retention. 3) The soil is enriched. The concentrations of nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, phosphates and are higher in soil that has earthworms. 4) Vermicompost also suppresses certain types of weeds that have grown if the compost were not present. 5) It promotes better root growth and structure, and is an excellent medium for growing seedlings and seeds, improving crop germination and yields.So now that we know the benefits of vermiculture, how make to the creation of a small worm farm bin and what should I choose? What size box and the type of bin is best for you? For every 500 g (1 pound) of food waste produced each week, you'll need at least 30 cm square (1 square foot) of warehouse space. Therefore, choose the box size is appropriate for your family size. As a reference point for 2-3 people you should have a container of 60 x 60 x 30 cm equipped with 1 kg of worms.Most small containers for use vermicompost can be grouped into three categories: 1) not are continuous: A split pot, a layer of organic material is placed in the coating pan at the bottom. Then add the worms and organic matter for composting is added in a layer above the bedding. Another layer is added on top of the organic matter and the worms begin to compost organic matter and bedding. This type of container is often used because it is small and easy to build. However, it is relatively difficult to harvest because all the materials and worms must be emptied when harvesting.2) vertical continuous flow: a series of trays stacked vertically on top of each other. The lower tray is first filled in a manner similar to the trash not continuous, but not harvested when full. In contrast, a thick layer of bedding is added on top and the top tray is used to add organic matter. Worms finish composting the materials in the bottom tray and then migrate to the previous one. When a sufficient number of worms have migrated, the vermicompost in the bottom tray can be collected and should be relatively free of worms. These containers provide an easier method of harvesting, since not all have to be emptied out.3) horizontal continuous flow: a series of trays lined horizontally. This method also relies on the earthworms migrating towards a food source in order to facilitate the harvesting process. The tray is usually constructed as a box is not continuous, but is longer and is in horizontal position. It is divided into two, usually a heavy gauge screen of chicken wire. Half is used until full, then the other half is filled with bedding and organic matter. Over time, the worms migrate to the side with the food and the compost can be collected. These containers are larger than a non-continuous, but still small enough to be used for growing small-scale worm, with the added advantage of being easier to harvest. The creation of a small-scale worm compost is FarmSetting easier than you may think. All you need are: * A plastic container with a lid to keep flies and reduce odors, while the matter is decomposing. However, the worms will need oxygen, so they drill holes in the bottom of the tray for ventilation and drainage and also help this process by placing trash in a few bricks to elevate the ground .* Place some bedding in the box of worms in the form of strips of paper (from a mechanical shredder is perfect because it is very fine), peat or coconut hair (coir) that can be commercially purchased . Do not use glossy paper or magazines. This should not be more than one fifth of the container space. Remember that the worms eat the bedding, so you need to reset this every few months .* water to moisten the bedding. Make sure you do not fill the tank with water in excess. I just want to wet the bed. * Get the bits of food that has been saving. The best pieces are fresh fruit and vegetables, fruit skins, apple cores, etc. If you want to help the worms over some of these remains could be liquefied in a blender to speed up the process. Additions, such as manure from cows, sheep, pig or chicken is an advantage but not a necessity .* In the configuration of your vermicompost avoid feeding the worms the following: meat, fat or dairy products, citrus, onions and garlic, fish, bones, snuff, or a pet or human manure. Excess fat prevents the worms to breathe properly, as they breathe through the skin. Also avoid using too many watermelon skins, because I really do not have much nutritional value for the earthworm and also alter the compost moisture levels. If your lawn has been sprayed with herbicides to prevent these cuts feed the worms. * Now is the time to put the worms in the trash. The type of worm is important and red worms are available. These are called worms, known as red worms (Eisenia foetida) or red worm (Lumbricus rubellus). Make sure that you do on a sunny day and the sun is shining in the compost pile. The worms do not like the sun and immediately begin to dig into their new home. If you do not have the sun shining for this exercise, you can find most of your worms crawled out of the box and went on to greener pastures! Worms can be purchased commercially, including on the Internet .* Now, covered with two handfuls of soil to the bedding in each tray providing "fodder" for the worms. Adding crushed eggshells provides not only roughage but also calcium for the worms, which decreases the acidity in the bin. Now put the lid down on the bin.Where must place the worm compost bin? Many people actually like to keep their inner tray, either in a garage area, basement, kitchen or laundry room. Personally, I do not compost bins inside belong to everyone. Instead place the trash in an area protected from the sun. In winter, you can move the tray to the garage or surround it with some sort of shelter, such as bales of hay to keep snow, rain and cold out.Maintaining his BinYou Vermicompost have to make sure you have enough moisture in the paper, without it too wet, and ensure that the compost is alkaline and not acidic. You must turn the bin contents on a more regular basis, it is best to do it every 3 days. The worms need three things exist: i) Oxygen ii) moisture iii) food scraps iv) a dark place all requirements liveIf worms that live happily in their new environment and breed. Adult worms produce three cocoons a week and each cocoon contains at least three baby worms and sometimes ten or more. Every three months the worms should be harvested or removed from the castings.Make sure their land never smells sour. If this happens, it means that the soil is too wet. If it smells sour then add calcium carbonate, also known as lime garden, which is very different from the common lime, which will kill the worms, crushed egg shells, dirt, sand, or newspapers to absorb the moisture.So that excess wet your compost? - About 75% humidity. What does this mean exactly? I can hear you ask. Well, if you take a handful and squeeze hard material should only get about one or two drops of liquid. This is how worms like their environment and will be very happy to stay.No only going to be happy to be also multiplied. If conditions are good, that will double the population of worms in six months. If the worms are filled and do not remove any, then the worms will slow down your reproduction.Feeding your WormsThere are two methods for adding food scraps in the top feed tray .*: This is when food scraps and biodegradable is placed directly on top of the existing layer in a container and then covered with another layer of bedding and soil. This is repeated every time the garbage is fed power .* pocket: a top layer of bedding is maintained and the food is buried beneath the drilling down on the bed. The location of the food is changed each time, rotating around the tray to allow time for the worms to break down food in your pockets before eating. The top layer of bedding replaced when necessary.One pounds of worms will eat about three and a half pounds of food scraps a week. If you add more food than the worms can handle, anaerobic conditions and is set to cause bad odor. Make sure food scraps are always buried under the ground to avoid attracting flies and rodents. Knowing when and how to harvest container harvest worm VermicompostSmaller scale in a variety of ways, and the length of time it takes to complete the process really depends on a number of variables including the size of the container to start. In all cases, harvesting should begin when the bedding and food consumed has become a dark brown. It should be moist and crumbly, with a consistency of coffee grounds.After about six weeks, you begin to see worm castings (soil-like material that has moved through the digestive tracts of worms). Castings can boost plant growth, as they are rich in organic matter and nutrients that plants need to grow, and are pulsing with biological activity that will bring life to your soil eco-system.After about 4 months it's time to separate compost worms. If you have a container that is not continuous or divided, it is more difficult to harvest the worms. However, this situation is not impossible. Take the contents and place it face down on a piece of plastic as a ground sheet or tarp. Because earthworms are photosensitive, if this is done on a sunny day the worms begin to dig down, and then it is easy to begin to scrape the manure from the top, waiting in the middle of them move down. Wait 20-30 minutes before starting to scrape the top layer of compost.If, however, you're the impatient type, you get a fine mesh strainer, the kind used on construction yards, if your lot compost is quite large, or a large family screen will do. Sieve the compost until finely granulated fertilizer, on the one hand, and worms in the other to start the process again. Do not be lazy and put the worms in the soil with compost. Not that the worms damage your plants at all, but red worms are not worms that survive for long in such soil. In nature, this type of worm lives in temperate climates in the leaves on the forest floor or in manure piles.Be hunting worm eggs. They are lemon-shaped and the size of a match head. They are brilliant in appearance, and are light brown. The eggs contain between two and twenty baby worms. Although time consuming, you may want to return the egg to the trash so they can hatch and thrive.Another how to harvest the compost is to move the compost to one side of the box and add fresh bedding and food to other side. Only then bury food in the new part. In six weeks, the worms have migrated to the new bedding and you can harvest the finished compost and replace with new bedding.Now you have all this compost, how do you use? You can use the vermicompost immediately or store it and use it later. It will be good for one year. Mix in the top six inches of soil in your garden and around your trees and plants. Can also be used as a topping on outdoor plants or sprinkle it on the lawn as you would as if in coverage. Vermicompost has a large nutrient-rich compost that is perfect for areas that do not receive much rain for plants retention.For moisture inside, which can safely mix vermicompost with your potting soil. As for indoor plants, make sure you have removed all the worms and eggs from the compost, since it will not survive in an interior pot.You can also make a "compost tea" to feed your plants. An easy recipe is to add two tablespoons of vermicompost to one quart of water and let sit for a day, stirring occasionally. Water your plants with this "tea" to give them a boost.
